The heart of Copenhagen is ringed by a series of lakes to the northwest and by the inner harbour to the southeast. It is characterised by narrow and predominantly pedestrian streets lined with gabled houses, enticing shops and cafés. The huge Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) lies at the western end of the central area, from here a series of pedestrianised streets (Strøget), extend as far as Kongens Nytorv (King's New Square). The castles of Rosenborg and Amalienborg and the seaman's district of Nyboder, are to be found in the area to the north and east of Kongens Nytorv; Slotsholmen island, the site of Absalon's original bastion, lies to the southwest. The inner harbour separates the main part of the city from Christianshavn. This island was first developed in the seventeenth century, when Christian IV offered tax incentives to encourage merchants, shipbuilders and tradesmen to settle there.
Tourist Information
Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Information
Bernstorffsgade 1 (at the entrance to Tivoli)
Tel: (33) 257 400 or (70) 222 442. Fax: (33) 257 410.
Website: www.woco.dk
Opening hours: Sep-Apr, Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Sat 0900-1330; May-Sep, Mon-Sun 0900-2000.
Budget travellers may prefer to approach Use It, Rådhusstræde 13 (tel: (33) 730 620; fax: (33) 730 649; e-mail: useit@ui.dk; website: www.useit.dk).
Passes
The Copenhagen Card allows free admission to over 60 museums and other attractions in the metropolitan area, free travel in the city (see Public Transport section) and other discounts in the rest of Denmark. The card costs Dkk155, Dkk255 or Dkk320 for 24, 48 or 72 hours (concessions available).Landmarks and historic sites
Main Sites
Amalienborg Palace
Home to the royal family since 1794, the palace is actually made up of four identical rococo structures. Twelve rooms are open to the public, including the jewellery room in the part called Christian VIII's Palace. Amalienborg Square, with the equestrian statue of Frederik V, is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and a major tourist attraction. If you arrive at noon on a day when the royal family is in residence, you can witness 70 guards in high furred helmets march toward this square from their barracks.
Christian VIII's Palace is open November-April Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-4 pm and May-October daily 10 am-4 pm. 35 DKr adults, 5 DKr children. Phone 3312-2186.
Christiansborg Palace
On the Slotsholmen (island headquarters of Danish political institutions). The granite and copper structure was built in the early 1900s on an ancient site. You can take a guided tour (English spoken) through the ornate reception rooms used by the queen when she receives foreign dignitaries.
June-September, daily tours at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm; October-May, tours Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 11 am and 3 pm. 40 DKr adults, 10 DKr children.
You can also visit the subterranean ruins 9:30 am-3 pm on the same days as tours for 35 DKr adults, 5 DKr children. Phone 3392-6492.
Little Mermaid
This statue was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's famous tale. The pensive (and very little) maiden sits on rocks just a few feet into the harbour on the north side of the city. She can be reached by a short stroll from Langelinie—a picturesque quay that surrounds the Kastellet (a 17th-century fort)—or via one of the sightseeing buses that depart frequently from the Radhus (Town Hall). Canal tours also make a stop by the statue: They're the only way to see her from the opposite side.
Nyhavn
East of Kongens Nytorv (King's New Square), this was once a neighbourhood where sailors ate, drank and slept. Its nautical heritage is still reflected in its architecture and atmosphere. It's a magnet for photographers and restaurateurs and a popular starting point for the canal tours.
Radhus (Town Hall)
Right in the center of the city, this 1905 building is a beautiful mixture of Nordic and Italian architectural inspiration. Noble statues stand at its entry, on its roof and inside, where, among others, the writer Hans Christian Andersen and the Nobel Prize-winning physicist Niels Bohr are honored. The interior is a wonder to stroll through, with its handsome brass staircase and fancifully painted walls and archways. Jens Olsen's World Clock, the most precise mechanical clock in the world, can be seen in the lower portion of the Town Hall Tower. A panoramic view of the city from the top of the tower will require a tour guide.
Monday-Friday 10 am-3 pm. Guided tours in English: Monday-Friday at 3 pm, Saturday at 10 and 11 am. 30 DKr. Tower tours: June-September Monday-Friday at 10 am, noon and 2 pm, Saturday at noon; October-May Monday-Saturday at noon. 20 DKr. Phone 3366-2582.
Rosenborg Palace
Built by King Christian IV in the 17th century, Rosenborg is a chronicle of the Danish kings and queens who lived there. It's one of our favorite stops, although it used to be rather a dark place and has only recently had electric lighting installed: it is still best to see it on a sunny day. Three centuries of royal portraits hang, chronologically, in period rooms. The crown jewels are on display as well. No explanations are offered as part of the displays, so it's a good idea to purchase one of the guidebooks to the castle at the entrance.
May-September daily 10 am-4 pm, October daily 11 am-3 pm, November-April Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-2 pm. 50 DKr adults, 10 DKr children. Oster Voldgade 4A. Phone 3315-3286.
Rundetarn (Round Tower)
The panoramic view from the tower is impressive. Constructed in the 17th century as an observatory, it consists of a spiraling ramp that ascends within the structure to the top. It's the oldest observatory in Europe that's still in use.
June-August daily 10 am-8 pm, September-May daily 10 am-5 pm. The observatory is open mid October-mid March on Tuesday and Wednesday 7-11 pm and for special events in summer. 15 DKr adults, 5 DKr children. Kobmagergade 52A. Phone 3373-0373.
Neighbourhoods and districts
Christiania
The free city of Christiania is a wonderful example of Danish tolerance. The former military base was invaded peacefully by hippies in the early 1970s and has since been a small town of 1,000 inhabitants living under their own laws. Christiania's main rule is "say no to hard drugs," which implies "yes" to hashish, pot and marijuana, which are openly for sale in Pusher Street (no photography allowed). While that's the main reason people go there, Christiania is actually a fascinating experiment in self-government. Past Pusher Street is where the city gets really interesting, with amazing hand-built houses; before Pusher Street you'll find a nice market and cultural venues.
Christianshavn
A charming island at the southern edge of the city, which first was inhabited in the 1700s as a working-class and fishing suburb. Today it's one of the most sought after residential areas for its village atmosphere. Christianshavn makes a pleasant stroll with its converted warehouses, canals and cobblestone streets. The island has a left-wing tradition and hosts the free city of Christiania. All canal tours pass through the area.
